WEEK2-ISO

ISO denotes is how sensitive the image sensor is to the amount of light present. The higher the ISO, the more sensitive the image sensor and therefore the possibility to take pictures in low-light situations.

ISO speed affects the shutter speed / aperture combinations we can use to obtain correct exposure.

Suppose our digital camera's light meter warns us there is not enough light to correctly expose a scene. We could use the on-board flash, but let's suppose again it's not allowed.

We would then need to use a higher ISO. Set on "ISO Auto" mode, Our digital camera will automatically select a higher ISO. Otherwise, We can manually select the next higher ISO and see if the increased sensitivity allows us to obtain a correctly exposed picture. If it does, we can now take a correctly exposed picture.

However, all this increase in sensitivity does not come free. There is a price to pay with our image appearing more noisy.

General Rules and tips for ISO Settings:

• Use an ISO of 100 or 200 when taking photographs outside in sunny conditions.
• If the sky is overcast or it is evening time, then use an ISO within the range of 400 to 800.
• Night time or in cases of low light you might need to set your digital camera ISO to 1600. If we don't then our photo will appear too dark if at all. 

(Self Review)

ISO is the measurement of the camera sensor's sensitivity to light. We will get the same effect of ISO either we used longer shutter speed or larger aperture opening. 

If we are using high ISO value means the sensor will be more sensitive to light, meaning it will take less light to get the right exposure. Then, If we are using low ISO indicates low sensitivity to light but generally higher resolution with less noise or grain.

When taking photograph outside or in sunny condition, we can used ISO of 100 or 200. When taking in a darkened room or if the sky is overcast or in the evening time, we can used ISO 400 to 800.

During at night, we can set our camera to ISO 1600. Based on the condition or placed. If not, our photo will appear too dark.

WEEK2-WHITE BALANCE

Preset White Balance Settings

• Auto – this is where the camera makes a best guess on a shot by shot basis. You’ll find it works in many situations but it’s worth venturing out of it for trickier lighting.
• Tungsten – this mode is usually symbolized with a little bulb and is for shooting indoors, especially under tungsten (incandescent) lighting (such as bulb lighting). It generally cools down the colors in photos.
• Fluorescent – this compensates for the ‘cool’ light of fluorescent light and will warm up your shots.
• Daylight/Sunny – not all cameras have this setting because it sets things as fairly ‘normal’ white balance settings.
• Cloudy – this setting generally warms things up a touch more than ‘daylight’ mode.
• Flash – the flash of a camera can be quite a cool light so in Flash WB mode you’ll find it warms up your shots a touch.
• Shade – the light in shade is generally cooler (bluer) than shooting in direct sunlight so this mode will warm things up a little.

                                                  

                                                        

 

Preset White Balance

Digital cameras also have presets white balance options: sunlight and cloudy for outdoor and fluorescent, incandescent and tungsten bulb for indoor in case you need them. These will compensate the yellow or blue tint. Here are some examples for these on Canon PowerShot A520, indoor conditions. 

Auto White Balance 

Situations when auto white balance will not likely work proper are: beaches (yellowish tin), snow (bluish tin), cloudy weather, indoor photography, but also forests. This is why a lot of cameras have scene modes for these cases.

 

 

Here are several examples of comparison pictures using white balanced :

 

(Self Review)

White balance refer to the adjustment of relative amounts of red, green , blue and so on. So that, we can produced picture with neutral colors. For example if we want to take pictures of sky, we can set the white balance to be more blue, thus our sky pictures will looked more nature and nice. Other than that, it will give the sky color like to be live.

White balance is not related to the exposure. It only the appearance of color in the images. White balance is essentially  the camera compensating for the color cast of the light in order to reproduced the correct color. We must know to adjust the correct color which is white balance to produce an interesting pictures. So that our pictures will have a good color.

 

WEEK 2-SHUTTER SPEED

Several examples pictures that I found which are using shutter speed. 

 

high shutter speed

(suka sgt gambar ni..coz saya rase gmbr ni cantik sgt..hihi..korang rase?ke biasa2 jer?hihik)

 

lower shutter speed

 

high shutter speed

 

high shutter speed

 

high shutter speed

 

lower shutter speed

 

lower shutter speed

 

high shutter speed

 

high shutter speed

 

high shutter speed

 

 What is SHUTTER SPEED?

Wikipedia describes shutter speed as being the amount of time a digital cameras shutter is held open for when taking a photograph. Shutter speed allows light to reach the cameras image sensor. 

In photography, shutter speed is a common term used to discuss exposure time, the effective length of time a camera's shutter is open. The total exposure is proportional to this exposure time, or duration of light reaching the film or image sensor.

Shutter speed is measured in seconds and looks like 1/500, 1/250, 1/2 or 1 as in one second etc. It can range anywhere from 1/8000 to B for bulb. Bulb keeps the shutter open for as long as the shutter button is pressed down.

How do we know what shutter speed to use?

The shutter speed we will need to use depends on the type of photograph we want to take. For example, if we want to take a photograph of water frozen in action with every little bead in focus, then we would choose a fast shutter speed like 1/500 of a second. If we want to blur running water like the example below, then we would need to use a slower shutter speed like 1/4 of a second. Often when we use a slow shutter speed, we will also need a tripod to help avoid camera shake. 

Short tips for using shutter speed in digital SLR photography

• Slow shutter speed, slows motion.
  
• Fast shutter speed, takes the image almost instantly as in frozen in time.
  
• Use slow shutter speeds of at least 10 seconds or more for night shots of cities, buildings and streets etc.
  
• When using a slow shutter speed it's also a good idea to use a tripod and remote shutter release to avoid camera shake.
  
• If  for any reason we don't want to use a tripod, then a general rule to avoid camera shake is to never set our shutter speed slower than the reciprocal of the focal length value. For example, if our lens focal length is set at 50mm then don't use a shutter speed any slower than 1/60th of a second and so forth.
  
• To photograph a running child or animal while blurring the background, set the shutter speed to between 1/40 sec and 1/125 sec. Then follow the running child or moving animal as we press the shutter button. This is often referred to as panning.

(Self Review)

Slow shutter speed will allow blurring of the subject. Fast shutter speeds will stop the action. When shutter speed decrease, chances to get a blurring image will be increase because we must hold the camera standby for a longer period.

Fast shutter speeds are used to stop motion and will freeze the subjects. While for the slow shutter speeds can be used to portray movement or speed.

WEEK 2 - APERTURE

 How An Aperture Look Likes?

What Is... Aperture?

An aperture is an opening. In the world of photography, people use the term “aperture” to describe how much light is admitted into the camera. The width of the aperture can be controlled manually by the user, or automatically by the camera. Aperture width has a profound impact on the appearance of the final photograph, and the concept of aperture is often introduced at a very early stage in the study of photography as a result.

The main function of a camera lens is to collect light. The aperture of a lens is the diameter of the lens opening and is usually controlled by an iris. The larger the diameter of the aperture, the more light reaches the film / image sensor.

Aperture is expressed as F-stop, e.g. F2.8 or f/2.8. 

The smaller the F-stop number (or f/value), the larger the lens opening (aperture).

When we look at the technical specifications of a digital camera, one of the very first specification mentioned is its maximum aperture and/or its aperture range.What is 'aperture,' what is a good aperture range, and how is aperture relevant when it comes to choosing a digital camera?

In practice, unless we are dealing with a fixed-aperture lens (many simple point-and-shoot cameras have only one fixed aperture), the aperture of a lens is usually expressed as a range of fstops.

When we read the specifications of a camera, the aperture may be expressed in a number of different ways, the following three being the most common:

• Maximum Aperture:

Max. Aperture

F2.8

This simply states that the maximum aperture for the lens is F2.8.

• Aperture Range:

Aperture Range

F2.8-F8.0

This states the max. and min. aperture, the assumption being that there are standard increments between them.

• Maximum Wide-Angle and Telephoto Apertures:

Aperture

F2.8-3.5 or F2.8(W)-F3.5(T)

This gives the max. aperture for the wide-angle (F2.8) and telephoto (F3.5) focal lengths of a zoom lens.

It is usually not too difficult to figure out that a stated range deals with maximum apertures and not max and min apertures: the mimimum aperture should be quite small at F8, F11, F16 or F22.

A "fast" lens is one that has a large maximum aperture (F2.4, F2.0 for current digital cameras; F1.4, F1.2 for 35mm film cameras).

A Good Aperture Range

 

My personal preference for a 'good' aperture range is:

F1.8 - F16

F1.8

F2.8

F4

F5.6

F8

F11

F16

This tells us that the camera has an aperture range of F1.8 to F16; the maximum aperture is F1.8, and the minimum aperture is F16.

There are 5 f-stops between the max and min aperture. If your camera's lens is currently set at an aperture of F5.6, closing it by 1 f-stop would mean selecting F8; opening it up by 1 f-stop would mean selecting F4.

F1.8

F2.8

F4

F5.6

F8

F11

F16

How Is A Large Maximum Aperture Relevant?

A large maximum aperture is preferable to a smaller one since it gives the photographer more latitude in the kind of pictures that can be taken.

For example, it is pretty obvious that the larger the aperture, the better our digital camera will perform in low-light situations, since a larger lens opening is able to admit more light than a smaller lens opening.

A larger max. aperture also allows us to use a faster shutter speed to freeze action.

So, let's say the light meter in our digital camera calculates that for proper exposure in that indoor arena, we need an aperture of F4 and a shutter speed of 1/60 sec.

F4

1/60

To use a faster shutter speed (say, 1/250 sec.) to freeze action, we have to open up the aperture to allow more light in for that shorter amount of time.

For every shutter speed increment we go up, we need to open up a f-stop of aperture. From 1/60 sec. to 1/250 sec. there are 2 increments, so we open up the aperture by 2 f-stops, going from F4 to F1.8. Note that the camera would give proper exposure at 1/60 sec. at F4, 1/125 sec. at F2.8, and 1/250 sec. at F1.8, since all three aperture/shutter speed combinations allow the same amount of light into the camera.

How Is A Small Minimum Aperture Relevant?

A small minimum aperture is preferable to a larger one since it also gives the photographer more latitude in the kind of pictures that can be taken.

Suppose we want to take a picture of flowing water. As mentioned above, to depict flowing water, we usually want to use a slow shutter speed so that the water blurs. It is this blurring that makes the picture so effective in depicting water motion.

So, let's say the light meter in your digital camera calculates that for proper exposure on a bright sunny day, you need an aperture of F8 and a shutter speed of 1/125 sec.

F8

1/125

Well, if we decide to use a slower shutter speed (say, 1/30 sec.), this means that we have to compensate by closing down the aperture to allow less light in.

It makes sense really. Since we have increased the time the shutter remains open to allow light in, we must compensate by allowing less light in to expose the image sensor in that longer amount of time, if we still want a properly exposed picture.

(Self Review)

Aperture is the size of the opening of a lens. The aperture determines how much light will enter through the lens.It is measures by the F stop numbers. The big aperture is small F stop number while the small aperture is large F stop number. For example F1 is wide opening letting in lots of light and F32 is a small opening letting in little light.

WEEK 2 -"BOKEH"

Bokeh is different from sharpness. Sharpness is what happens at the point of best focus. Bokeh is what happens away from the point of best focus.Bokeh describes the appearance, or "feel," of out-of-focus areas.Bokeh is not how far something is out-of-focus, bokeh is the character of whatever blur is there. 

In photography, bokeh (pronounced /bɒkɛ/^[1]) is the blur,or the aesthetic quality of the blur, in out-of-focus areas of an image, or "the way the lens renders out-of-focus points of light.Bokeh is often most visible around small background highlights, such as specular reflections and light sources, which is why it is often associated with such areas.However, bokeh is not limited to highlights; blur occurs in all out-of-focus regions of the image.

The term comes from the Japanese word boke (暈け or ボケ), which means "blur" or "haze", or boke-aji (ボケ味), the "blur quality". The Japanese term boke is also used in the sense of a mental haze or senility.

The rendering of out-of-focus (OOF) image parts does not enjoy a large weight in the overall design compromise of a normal photographic lens. However, the OOF blur characteristics mattered to certain Japanese photographers who introduced the term "bokeh" to the photographic society to describe the aesthetic quality of the blur. In the absence of a single English word with the same meaning, there seems no reason not to adopt the Japanese term. The internet abounds with lens qualifications like "good bokeh" and "bad bokeh" but strictly speaking this use of the word should be discouraged.  

This blur disk is characterized by

1. A size.
2. A shape.
3. The light distribution across the disk.

Here are several examples of bokeh's pictures that i found :

what do you think about all this pictures? :)

There are some techiques how to make this bokeh :

Step 1 :
Bokeh usually works best when taking an up close picture of your subject, try finding a  subject with nice clear lighting that you are able to get a good close up of.

Step 2 :
Slightly unfocus your lens so that the image is now softly blurred. The image background will be significantly blurred, but try keeping the foreground image, your subject, recognizable

Step 3 :
Set your exposure time according to the amount of light present.

Step 4 :
Now set your aperture to a lower f-stop number so that the aperture is opened wider. Having the aperture on a wide setting will help keep the picture in soft focus.

Step 5 :
Look into your viewfinder and inspect the frame for any sharp lines or clear details in the background, this is not wanted in a Bokeh picture.

Step 6 :
Now take your pictures. 

(Self Review)

In conclusion, bokeh is a pictures which is have a blur background. If we are using bokeh for our pictures it will make the subject in our pictures will be the main focus and make our pictures more interesting.

WEEK 2 - CASE STUDY 1

Question

Should you buy a DSLR or Point and Shoot Digital Camera?
 

Siti Noor Photo has registered a short course on photography and she has decided to purchase a digital camera for the course. She already has the Point and Shoot Digital camera and now she is in dilemma whether she should buy the Digital Single‐ Lens Reflex (DSLR) camera. Followings is her thought “I’m using a compact point and shoot digital camera and i would like to ask it is worth it to upgrade to a DSLR camera? How huge a difference do DSLR cameras make compared to compact point and shoot igital camera? What matters the most when buying a digital camera? Is it the image quality, the brand name or the features offered by the camera?.... Oh friends… please assist me on this…”

Answer

Digital SLR camerasFrequently called DSLR cameras. are quite different from fixed-lens digital cameras  Often incorrectly called Point&Shoot digital cameras, of which only some are. The main advantages of a digital SLR camera are: less image noise at high-sensitivities, interchangeable lenses, a reflex viewfinder and much faster speed of operation. Note that only the reflex viewfinder is truly a property unique to DSLRs

Things To Know

• Digital SLR cameras are defined by their reflex viewfinder. DSLRs are the most efficient when using such a viewfinder. Some DSLR cameras also feature live-view which uses the rear LCD to show an approximation of the scene. At this time, live-view either means slow autofocus or a cropped preview, plus it is also not WYSIWYG nor does it allow access to all functions.

• A DSLR viewfinder sees through the lens. It is easy to judge focus - but not exposure - through it. You can't see how bright or dark a picture will come out before taking it.

• Optical zoom depends on the attached lens. It makes no sense to specify optical zoom when describing a digital SLR camera. Lenses which do not zoom are called prime lenses.

• A DSLR's focal-length multiplier is determined by the size of its image sensor. The angle-of-view of a lens mounted on a particular sensor is calculated using the focal-length-multiplier.

• The connector between an SLR camera and a lens is called a mount. Only SLR cameras and lenses with the same mount-type can be attached to each otherNote that even if a lens attaches, all its features may not be supported.   

• SLR lenses are zoomed and manually focused by handIn auto-focus mode, an SLR uses a motor to focus. This is faster, more precise and much more responsive than typical electronic zoomsOnly a few non-SLR cameras have mechanical zooms..All DSLR cameras have full manual controls, manual focusing, custom white balance, high-ISO sensitivities, a hot-shoe for an external flash and can produce RAW images.

• Available apertures are limited by the attached lens. Available shutter speeds are determined by the camera.

• Battery life on a DSLR is significantly longer than most fixed-lens digital 

Advantages of using DSLR camera  :

1.Image quality

Imahe quality produced by a DSLR is higher than most fixed-lens digital camera although it is strongly affected by the choice of lens. A combination of low image noise and high retention of details, particularly at higher ISO settings, places DSLR ahead of fixed-lens. DSLRs can also capture more dynamic range than the vast majority of fixed-lens cameras. However, both types of cameras are equally capable in terms of color, white-balance and exposure.

2. Speed

The most significant performance advantage of a DSLR is in terms of speed. Compared to fixed-lens cameras, a DSLR focuses faster and shoots faster for longer. Most other DSLR timings are noticeably faster too, including startup time and shot-to-shot delay.Focusing speed is important when capturing a moving subject. The faster a camera can focus, the faster it will take a picture. Shot-to-shot times and burst speed are also faster at maximum resolution on every DSLR than any camera which is not the Casio Exilim EX-F1. Burst-mode is mostly used in action and fashion photography where capturing a precise moment is paramount. Not only do DSLRs shoot faster but they can take more shots in a single burst at a constant speed. This increases the chances of capturing a decisive moment.

3. Shutter speed

Lightning fast shutter speeds. Why is a fast shutter speed important? Have you ever lost a shot with an inexpensive digital or standard camera waiting for the picture to snap? Digital SLR cameras are quick on the draw, so when that special moment happens, you’ll capture it all in glorious color. 

4. Multiple lens options. 

Digital SLR camera offers serious options for serious photographers. Most prominent among these options is the ability to add a variety of different lenses to the camera. Whether you’re shooting panoramic vistas or emotional close-ups, there’s a lens for your SLR to capture it more effectively.

5. Low light photos. 

Digital SLR’s have the power to turn poor lighting conditions into great shots. The digital sensors in a digital SLR camera can bring vibrant images to life even when there’s not enough ambient light to go around. And the coolest part, they can do it without using a flash!

6. More human control.

Cameras with automatic flashes or zoom controls are a great choice for many weekend photographers. But people who need a more control are better served by Digital SLR cameras. While many of the point-and-shoot features that make digital cameras so great are available here, there is also a wealth of customizable options in SLRs that a person can control just about every aspect of their photography.

However..my opinion is..if Siti dont have a lots of money..is better for her only borrow from the faculty..hahaha...like me..kui3.. But if she really want to buy it have money..why not just buy it for her future..may be in future..she can use it for get some extra money..if she good in taking pictures.whose know right? She will learn a lot in her class about using DSLR camera..

 

Week 1 (Briefing )

In this week, dr zaidatun gave us briefing about this subject and what we are going to learn. She also told us about course and syllabus explanation, lecturer’s & student’s responsibilities also about assignments & project.

 She is Dr. Zaidatun Tasir who is going to teach us in this subject..Hope I can score A this subject..hehehe..


Assessment for this subject :

Case Study Report (Group)

There will be 2 or 3 cases related to visual technology that need to be discussed by every team in and outside class. Each team should consist of 3 – 4 team members. The case study report should cover:

i. The explanation on the problem of the case
ii. Suggested solution
iii. Team reflection on solving the case.
Each case study report should be around 3 – 4 pages.


Assignment 1 – Digital Image Album (Individual Project)

Every student has to prepare Digital Image Album in their blog (in a CD‐ROM) consists of:
i. Realistic Images produced by using DSLR (minimum 8 images – 2 portrait images, 4
landscape images, and 2 macro images). Each image has to be explained with the
exposure setting (Aperture, Shutter Speed, ISO) that has been used.
ii. At least six images with incorrect exposure and shooting techniques and the corrected
version of the images with the correct exposure and shooting techniques.



Assignment 2 ‐ Image Manipulation (Individual Project)
For this assignment, every student has to prepare six digital images with different image
manipulation techniques using graphic manipulation sofware, which is Adobe Photoshop. This assignment needs to be uploaded in your learning porfolio, which is your blog. A copy of the files in .psd format needs to be submitted also to the instructor using a CD‐ROM. The original images also has to be display side‐by‐side with the manipulated images. Explain also the image manipulation techniques that have been used to manipulate every image.


Assignment 3 ‐ Graphics Design – Poster/Books Cover (Individual Project)

For this assignment, student needs to create an A3 digital poster or book cover to explain one concept in teaching and learning. You can choose any topic and target users for this
assignment. As guidelines, followings are potentials concept that you can choose:
i. Human respiratory Process and System
ii. Anaerobic Digestion
iii. Computer System
iv. Photography Shooting Techniques
v. Video Shooting Techniques
vi. Etc.

Poster/book cover should have more visuals and less text. Provide also explanation on how to produce the poster/book cover (the effects that have been used, filters etc.). This
assignment needs to be submitted in a softcopy format (.psd and .tiff or jpeg file format) using CD‐ROM.